More on Parabens: Greenwashing With Honeysuckle Extract

By Eliza Moriarty
Organic Consumers Association, 4/27/2009

For a refresher on parabens, here is an appealing article written for laypeople (Find it at http://ezinearticles.com/?Paraben-Free-Org…mp;id=2024753.)

QUOTE, from the article above:
Parabens are in widespread use by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries as an effective preservative. Parabens work to prevent fungal and bacterial growth in water based products, such as creams (a mixture of oil and water). Parabens are found in a variety of cosmetic products including moisturizers, shaving gels, personal lubricants, tanning solutions and even toothpaste.

Until recently it was thought that Parabens where safe due to their low toxic profile. However, new research has shown that the build up of Parabens in the body and their interaction with other commonly used chemicals may lead to hormone disruption and can lead to an increased cancer risk. It is very difficult to conclusively say whether Parabens are harmful. Any definitive study would likely take 10-20 years and would have to study the interactions of Parabens with a vast number of other synthetic chemicals. Paraben allergies are thankfully very rare. However, they do occur in a small number of people, and their reported incidence is increasing as people are exposed to Parabens in more of their food and cosmetic products.
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Many companies dismiss the concern over Paraben usage as a media inspired scare story. However, those who are most active in rubbishing claims of Paraben health concerns either work for or are linked to companies that extensively use Parabens in their products. There are many alternatives to using Parabens in personal care products and consumers are seeking out “Paraben Free” skin care in ever-greater numbers. However, some manufacturers are cynically employing other chemical preservatives that are known irritants or have far great health concerns – such as Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate. So long as it doesn’t say “Paraben” on the label, they are happy.

Other companies continue to use Parabens, but describe them on the ingredients list as “Japanese Honeysuckle”, a natural source of Parabens but chemically identical to the synthetic variety. There are alternatives to using Parabens or other synthetic preservatives in personal care products – but these are often more expensive to source or require extensive changes to the manufacturing process.

Another quote, from “Gaia Research”, in defense of parabens:

QUOTE
Contrary to popular misbelief, parabens are not diabolical chemical poisons invented by mad scientists to inflict havoc on human health. Parabens do have direct correlates in nature. In fact, all plants normally produce p-hydroxybenzoic acid, albeit in small quantities (Viitanen P et al, Plant Physiol, 136(4), 2004). Well-known plants known to significantly synthesise parabens as defensive chemicals against attack by micro-organisms include carrot, olive, cucumber, honeysuckle and ylang ylang (Bach M et al, Plant Physiol, 103(2), 1993); (Aziz N et al, Microbios 93(374), 1998); Smith-Becker J et al, Plant Physiol, 116(1), 1998); (Dweck A, “Natural Preservatives”, Cosmet Toilet, Aug 2003).

From Eliza:
Of course, this misses the point entirely. The parabens present in their whole, natural state do not have the paraben concentration necessary to provide preservation. The real problem at present is that Campo is producing a “honeysuckle” derived paraben that is concentrated and processed specifically for use as a preservative; further, isolated synthetic and natural parabens are bio-identical, and we have no evidence to show that concentrated natural parabens are any less toxic than concentrated synthetic parabens (presuming that Campo is not spiking their “natural” paraben preservative with synthetic parabens.) Since the INCI recommended for this concentrated paraben based preservative is ” Lonicera Caprifolium “, otherwise listed as Japanese Honeysuckle, Honeysuckle Flower Extract, Honeysuckle Extract, etc, unwitting consumers are fooled into assessing a label as miraculously innocent and pay premium prices to purchase what appears to be a wonderfully green product. More often than not, products that contain “Honeysuckle Flower Extract” (and truly, could any ingredient sound more gentle?) also make the false claim “NO PARABENS” all over the label and marketing materials.

Since I began making noise, a few have shifted marketing language to state, “No synthetic parabens.” Tricky.

Here is a marketing page for Campo’s Plantservative

http://www.campo-research.com/campo/products/plant.html

Also, please find the Campo Plantservative MSDS attached, and see:

QUOTE
16. Other Information

Uses as Cosmetic additive 0.4 – 1.0%

Supplementary Dietary/food use 0.01 – 1.0% (food preservation)

and

Recommended Mandatory Ingredient Listing of INCI name: Lonicera Caprifolium

Please refer to, “An Update On Natural Preservatives” Personal Care Magazine; September 2005, (Anthony C. Dweck BSc CSci CChem FRSC FLS FRSH – Technical Editor), excerpted as follows:

QUOTE
Japanese Honeysuckle extracts

A plant preservative that is based on the Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is available that is described as being a complex mixture of esters of lonicerin and natural p-hydroxy benzoic acid (Fig. 10). The commercial material from Campo is called Plantservative WSr, WMr INCI: Lonicera Caprifolium Extract).

Clearly this is a naturally occurring paraben, and we would expect this material to have antimicrobial properties. Lonicerin is luteolin-7-O-galactoside Fig. 11) (Chen et al). It has been reported Lee et al) that Lonicera japonica has anti-inflammatory activity and though not as potent as the normal benchmark of prednisolone, it would nonetheless be effective in treating inflammatory disorders. This factor makes the preservative very attractive, since it has benefits for its soothing properties and also has antimicrobial activity. There are not many preservatives that would have this dual benefit. I have not searched the literature to see whether other luteolin derivatives have been found to have antimicrobial properties, but the flavonoids are certainly well respected for their anti-inflammatory activity wherever they are found in plant materials.

The author, Anthony C. Dweck is a noted expert on parabens and defends their use, based upon their existence in nature.

Please see more about Dweck and parabens here: http://www.naturalingredient.org/Articles/toni1.html

Many others among us understand that there is a difference between a chemical component of a whole plant and a concentrated chemical compound used to preserve a product. I do not object to the use of a simple aqueous extract (tea) of honeysuckle, labeled as “Japanese Honeysuckle Extract”, but I do object to the misrepresentation involved in the use of Plantservative, labeled as “Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.” It is a highly processed and concentrated paraben extraction that may or may not be contaminated with synthetic parabens where is it manufactured in Singapore. I am particularly distressed by the fact that so many companies are evidently using the latter version of “Japanese Honeysuckle Extract” and simultaneously claiming “NO PARABENS” on their labels.

Another post from Eliza:
I am a product formulator myself and would be happy to tutor others through the “label sleuthing” process of determining whether it is likely that a specific product contains a simple honeysuckle infusion or Plantservative’s paraben preservative, listed as any of the folowing: Japanese Honeysuckle, Japanese Honeysuckle extract, Japanese Honeysuckle flower extract, Honeysuckle extract, Honeysuckle flower extract, Honeysuckle, Lonicera Caprifolium, Lonicera, or any other variation of the above phrases.

When I began contacting companies that are using this ingredient, several companies removed ingredient lists from their websites. One company in particular maintained ingredient lists on their website, but actually removed “Honeysuckle flower extract” from the posted ingredient lists. I did note that the ingredient is still included in their ingredient glossary as of this posting, however, and the accurate ingredient lists are still posted by other sites that carry their products. I did make a copy of the changes as they have ocurred, which is a disturbing exercise in “whitewashing” the “greenwashing.”

I invite everyone interested in “label sleuthing” to join me here with questions, tips, and observations!

Another post, from Amalie:

As a small manufacturer of USDA certified organic body care, I am relieved that OCA is providing a forum for a discussion of hidden parabens. I have reviewed the data and, as a formulator, am convinced that the Plantservative honeysuckle preservative in question cannot possibly be a simple CO2 extract of honeysuckle as claimed by Grateful Body. The MSDS and documentation for Plantservative is available online, and a review of those materials clearly states that it is a broad-spectrum anti-microbial and behaves as any synthetic paraben. No known whole plant extracts or materials provide anything resembling the industrial strength preservation claimed in the Plantservative documentation. Additionally, if CO2 honeysuckle extract were as effective as Plantservative, every personal care manufacturer interested in producing USDA certified organic products would be willing to pay a very high price for a USDA OG CO2 honeysuckle extract. It would be the end of all of our formulation challenges!

In regard to the May 14, 2009 issue of Organic Bytes, there is one very important error. I do request that OCA send a correction immediately, or in the very least, specifically correct the error in a visible location the next issue of Organic Bytes.

Under Headlines and Issues of the Week, OCA states:

QUOTE
1) Coming Clean News of the Week: Grateful Body Refutes Claims That All Honeysuckle Extracts Contains Parabens
In last week’s issue of Organic Bytes, we linked to an article where organic supplier Eliza Moriarty made the claim that products using honeysuckle extract as a ‘natural’ preservative are simply hiding parabens in their products. This week, USDA organic personal care product leader, Grateful Body, says those are false claims and shows documentation that its products have been tested free of parabens, despite the use of honeysuckle extract. Let the debate begin!

I am surprised by the mistakes. It does illustrate the fact that even some OCA staff members have difficulty distinguishing between USDA certified organic and inauthenticated organic claims in the personal care marketplace. Grateful Body has NO third party certification and does not produce USDA certified organic body care.

While Grateful Body modifies most ingredient names with the word “organic”, it does not specify the certifying body, so we don’t know if they refer to USDA, Eco-cert or any other program. Grateful Body claims some ingredients are “organic” when the ingredient doesn’t exist as an organic ingredient. Grateful Body also claims to use no synthetics. (They claim “organic xanthan” for example, which cannot be organic. It is an allowed synthetic.) In the absence of a third-party certifier, organic claims by body products manufacturers have no meaning. Any company that wishes to prove its organic and clean ingredient status may do so at any time by cleaning up their ingredient decks and earning the USDA seal of approval. Any company that is not eligible for the USDA seal is certainly not a leader in USDA organic body care!

Unfortunately, when OCA describes Grateful Body as “USDA organic personal care product leader,” it offers meaningful credibility to a company that has not earned it, misleads consumers into believing that their products are USDA organic, and undermine OCA’s own Coming Clean Campaign in regard to hidden ingredients! As a manufacturer of USDA certified organic products, it also undermines my company’s position in the marketplace when I must compete with companies that aren’t meeting the USDA organic standards, but are credited by OCA as such.

Additionally, the description of Eliza Moriarty as an “organic supplier” is inaccurate. I am on an organic industry listserve with Eliza and am familiar with her work. She is an experienced phytochemist, researcher and professional organic body care formulator, and is also a certified Organic Processing Inspector. She’s an organics advocate with a sharp eye for “greenwashing.” From our mutual positions as natural products formulators, the documentation speaks for itself, as does the action of the preservative in question.

As Mr. Dweck (international expert on parabens and former Associate Editor of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science) states, Plantservative is clearly a natural paraben. I see that the quote taken from “An Update On Natural Preservatives,” Personal Care Magazine; September 2005, (Anthony C. Dweck BSc CSci CChem FRSC FLS FRSH – Technical Editor) has been removed from Eliza’s OCA article. I have a copy, as follows:

QUOTE
Japanese Honeysuckle extracts
A plant preservative that is based on the Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is available that is described as being a complex mixture of esters of lonicerin and natural p-hydroxy benzoic acid (Fig. 10). The commercial material from Campo is called Plantservative WSr, WMr (INCI: Lonicera Caprifolium Extract). Clearly this is a naturally occurring paraben, and we would expect this material to have antimicrobial properties.

If Grateful Body tested Plantservative and found no synthetic parabens, it merely tells us that it has not been spiked with synthetics. It does NOT tell us that it is not a natural paraben, and it certainly does not indicate that it is a whole plant extract. The “industrial strength” preservation action of Plantservative very strongly indicates that it is a highly processed and concentrated natural paraben.

I hope OCA will correct the misstatement in the May 14 issue of Organic Bytes, lest Organic Consumers believe that Grateful Body is USDA certified organic and give undue credence to their products and their claims.

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